The first only critical guide to mechanical watches
The rating method - 1st Criterion: Concept
This refers to the concept behind the watch, to the different steps taken prior to the birth of a new watch. A brand, whether new or old, defines itself with values and objectives. Therefore, it also defines the watches it brings to market, normally in line with its values and often with its technical knowhow and production modalities. This applies to both the design and the movement. Accordingly, we have defined 3 sub-criteria:


We analyze the watch in terms of the brand’s attitude when taking the decision to launch this model: copier/imitator, follower, challenger or leader.

Example: everyone has observed that Zenith collections did change in the last decade (we refer to Defy and Defy Xtreme collections). These collections were significantly different (in design, price and communication) with what the brand had been doing so far. They were not really coherent with Zenith long history, nor were they bringing anything new to the watch historical patrimony (they were rather a me too statement) neither were they easily associated with Zenith; they were also priced artificially high. The fact that these collections were discontinued recently shows that when there is a poor concept lying behind a watch or a collection, its survival is greatly at risk.
1st Criterion: Concept
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